![]() ![]() All the plastic bottles are oxygen permeable. Stored like that, you'll get many months of storage life and then the students don't have to mix anything, they just pour out the required quantity for their tanks. ![]() You'll want to mix entire bottles of concentrate down into working stock at once and then store the working stock in smaller brown glass bottles with polyseal lids (try Specialty Bottle for cheap Boston Brown bottles to do this). ![]() Here is a link to a forum where the C-41 process at home using minilab chemicals is being discussed including the part numbers you'll need to buy and a source for them. Consult whatever your version of Environmental Safety and Health, Waste Disposal, Occupational Safety, etc department is called at your school. Given that you're in a university setting, there are going to be specific rules and regulations for how you're allowed to dispose of the the used chemistry (and there are similar rules for the B&W chemistry you're using now). So you use the color developer, fix, and final rinse one-shot (meaning disposal after a single use) and re-use the bleach until it's exhausted. The bleach is considerably more expensive but lasts nearly forever. The color developer, fix, and final rinse chemicals are very cheap. The only trick is that the processing temperature for best quality is quite warm, so you're going to have to provide some way for the students to warm the chemicals up to 100F and hold them at that temperature through the entire processing sequence, including when they're inside the tank with the film.įinally, you can use a very similar process to what you're doing now. What this means is that ALL C-41 processing for EVERY film is done at the same time and temperature regardless of what brand of chemicals you're using or what brand of film you're using. The small kits are also going to cost you significantly more per roll than buying minilab chemicals given that, as a university darkroom, you're almost certain to go through a lot of chemistry once the students know color processing is available.Ĭ-41 is a standardized process, unlike b&w developing. This is a MUCH lower quality processing method than properly separated bleach and fix steps. The small kits most people use at home use a combined bleach/fixer bath called a Blix. There's two simple reasons for this: quality/consistency and cost. You DEFINITELY want to buy Kodak (or Fuji-Hunt, though it's harder to find without a contract) mini-lab chemicals in solution and dilute that to your working stock. I may have some inconsistencies in my knowledge here, I'm learning from someone who learned from someone else who might have known what they were doing so it's a bit like blind leading more blind.Īlso, apologies if this has been posted before (I know it's probably been on here a thousand times) - I tried searching all the keywords I could think of but the searching on reddit sucks.įor your usage, you don't want to buy one of the kits from Tetenal, Jobo, etc that mixes up from powder or small bottles of liquid concentrate. Also, can we just use the same developer/fix/bleach for all film stocks? How do you standardise times (for B&W we just look up the time on the ilford chart or the ilford equivalent - we're using ID-11). How would this pattern work with C41? Would it end up being super expensive?įurther, which kit would be best? The fewer the baths the better - but also with an eye on consistency. At the moment we only do B&W and we are just dumping the B&W developer after each use (saving the fixer and stop) and this seems to work well replace the developer when the bottle is empty. I am the manager of the darkroom at my university and I want to be able to provide C41 for our members however I'm a bit uncertain about it.įirst of all, shelf life. ![]()
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